Troubleshooting: Whirlpool Front-Load Washer, Model WFW5620HW
The problem: For about a week, the washer hasn't drained at the end of the cycle. About 2 inches of water stays in the drum, the display flashes F9 E1, and you hear a humming sound when it should be draining. You've already unplugged and restarted it, and the drain hose at the back doesn't look kinked.
About my sources: Your manual is the main source for this guide. My web search tool wasn't working during this job, so I couldn't check Whirlpool's website or parts retailers. Where advice comes from your manual, I say so. Where it's general washer know-how, I label it general guidance. If you'd like me to check anything against Whirlpool's official pages, you can use your one free change request.
⚠️ Stop now: call for help if...
Stop, unplug the washer if you can do it safely, and get help if you notice any of these:
- Burning smell, smoke, sparks, or scorch marks on the washer, cord, plug, or outlet.
- Buzzing, crackling, or heat at the wall outlet.
- Water near the outlet, cord, or plug, or water leaking from under the washer toward electrical parts. Don't touch the plug if it's wet or sitting in water. Switch off the washer's circuit breaker first.
- A breaker or fuse that trips more than once. Don't keep resetting it.
- A damaged cord or plug, such as frayed, cracked, melted, or bent prongs.
- Humming that goes on and on with a hot or burning smell. The drain pump motor may be stuck and overheating.
- A gas or rotten-egg smell (for example, from a nearby gas dryer or water heater). Leave the home right away and call your gas utility or emergency services from outside. Don't flip switches or unplug anything on your way out.
Also: Don't force the washer door open. Front-loaders often stay locked while water is inside. Drain the water first (Step 2).
Most likely causes
| Cause | How likely | DIY-safe? |
|---|---|---|
| Clogged drain pump filter (lint, coins, hair ties, small socks, etc.) | High | Yes |
| Something stuck in the drain pump itself, past the filter | Medium | No, call a pro |
| Clog inside the drain hose, or a blocked household drain or standpipe | Medium | Yes (the hose end and the standpipe you can reach) |
| Drain hose set too high or pinched behind the washer | Low | Yes |
| Drain pump failing (motor hums but can't turn) | Low to Medium (goes up if cleaning the filter doesn't help) | No, call a pro |
| Too many suds from too much detergent or non-HE detergent (general guidance) | Low | Yes |
Why this order: A humming sound plus water that won't drain usually means the pump is getting power but can't move water. The most common reason is a blockage at or near the drain pump filter. Your manual names the filter as the main fix for F9 E1. The problem started suddenly a week ago, which also fits a blockage better than wear and tear.
Error code explained: F9 E1
Meaning: "Long drain." The washer took too long to drain, or couldn't finish draining.
- Source: your Whirlpool manual's troubleshooting section, which you pasted.
- Confirmed for your model? Yes, as long as the text you pasted came from the WFW5620HW manual (or its model family). I couldn't check it online this time.
- What your manual says to do: check the drain hose for kinks or clogs, make sure the drain hose isn't installed more than 96 in. (2.4 m) above the floor, and clean the drain pump filter.
Step-by-step fixes to try
You've already done the power reset and looked for kinks at the back, so I've skipped those. Below are the next checks, starting with the most likely fix.
1. Finish checking the drain hose (height and pinch points)
Safety prep: Unplug the washer before moving it or reaching behind it. If you have to slide it out, get a helper, because a washer with water in it is very heavy. Don't pull or strain the water supply hoses.
Time: about 10 minutes
- Find where the drain hose ends: a standpipe (an open pipe in the wall or floor), a laundry sink, or a floor drain.
- Measure from the floor to the highest point of the hose. Your manual says it must not be more than 96 in. (2.4 m) above the floor.
- Check the hose where it might be squashed between the washer and the wall or under a foot of the washer. These spots are easy to miss.
- General guidance: the hose end should sit loosely in the standpipe. It shouldn't be taped or sealed airtight into the pipe, and it shouldn't be pushed very far down.
- Leave the hose end in place for now. Step 2 drains the water from the front.
How to tell if it worked: If you found and fixed a problem, plug the washer back in and run a drain or spin cycle (see Step 5). The water should drain and F9 E1 shouldn't come back.
If that didn't fix it, go to the next step.
2. Clean the drain pump filter (from your manual)
This is the most likely fix. These steps follow your manual, with some practical tips added.
Safety prep: Unplug the washer. If the last wash was warm or hot, wait until the water has cooled. Put down towels first, because there's 2 inches of water in the drum and it will all come out through this filter. That's often more than one shallow pan holds.
Time: 20–45 minutes, mostly spent emptying the pan
- Unplug the washer (manual step 1).
- Lay down plenty of towels. Have a shallow pan plus a bucket ready so you can empty the pan as it fills.
- Open the access panel at the bottom front (manual step 2). If it's stiff, check your manual for how it opens. Don't pry hard.
- Put the shallow pan and towels under the filter (manual step 3).
- Pull out the small drain hose, remove its plug, and let the water drain into the pan (manual step 4). Pinch the hose or put the plug back in each time you need to empty the pan.
- When the water stops flowing, **turn the